•    Boatyard Blues, by JC   

    Some have asked since Breeze has NOT been ‘out’ for paint in over 5 years, “what’s on it?” well here’s a picture of the can,

    and the ‘recipient’:

    I hadn’t heard of Jotun before buying Breeze, the previous owner put us onto it, and having seen how it has performed over the four years we’ve had the boat I couldn’t not try it again. The boat was last painted in the fall of 2008. Jotun manufactures a lot of high tech industrial paint including bottom paint for use on commercial shipping. I bought this paint at Thunderbird Marina’s chandlery. Two gallons was $445 including tax so it’s comparable in price with other paints.

    We usually have the boat dived 2 or 3 times a year depending on how bad the growth is. Some years are worse than others. Prop shaft zincs are changed as required during those dives. The boat was last dived at the end of October 2013. Since then I cleaned the weed of the water line with a pressure washer (from the dock and deck) when we cleaned the boat up for sail past in early May, that took most of the weed of the waterline, and it beats the hell out of scrubbing from the dinghy! The condition of the paint when we hauled out on May 9th was pretty good. The only growth on it was on the bottom of the keel and some grass on the water line, otherwise just the usual slime. Keith P can vouch for this as he was there at the time. There was some delamination of the fairing on the Keel and on the bottom of the hull in one location as you can see here:

    I am told by the owner at Executive Yachts in Lynwood, who’s been doing some work on Breeze, that Pettit Horizons* is another good paint, he was aware of Jotun paints’ reputation as well. Apparently the Pettit Horizons has similar copper content to Jotun and is more easily available. These two paints, I am told, have more copper content than the popular Micron CSC for example.

    Typically I put two coats of paint on the whole bottom and a third coat on the rudder and keel. The Jotun paint needs a full 8 hours of dry time before refloating so we had the boat re-blocked in order to get the old pad locations with two coats and the bottom of the keel with three coats. Personally I think the idea of slapping one coat of paint on these areas before they drive the boat to the splash point and putting the boat in before it has dried is nuts. Why spend all the money on a haul out and then do something to guarantee your return next year? The bottom of the keel on Breeze was covered in barnacles when hauled, there were barnacle shells embedded in the old paint which had obviously not been cleaned off last time it was hauled, this has been corrected, ground down, epoxied and repainted with plenty of drying time between the coats of paint.

    Although we repainted the bottom on this haul out, this wasn’t the only reason we hauled the boat. The boat now has 5 new flanged seacocks with all bronze valves and fittings. One of which was relocated to a more accessible location from right behind the engine to in front of it. The old seacocks were good quality flanged bronze tapered plug seacocks for the ¾” holes and Groco SV’s for the 1½” holes, however, with plastic fittings on the top to connect the hoses (original C&C factory). Only two of the original seacocks are left in the boat, both on the cockpit drains, both 1½”. They are flanged bronze with plastic hose fittings as well. Keith P was able to get the plugs out of those and they were sanded smooth and greased with the appropriate (Groco recommended) expensive grease that doesn’t attack rubber (the valve plugs are rubber) then reassembled by Keith, the spaces were a little small for me to get into. Thanks Keith! I did not change the plastic fittings on the cockpit drain valves as I didn’t want to disturb them, they have been in there 33 years and are still in reasonably good shape. To replace them would be about $700 just for the parts. Bronze is not cheap especially in 1½”, maybe next time. Here are the before and after pictures of the valves we did change”.

    Before (33 yrs old – Two Wilcox-Crittenden ¾” and a seized open Groco SV 1½”):

    During (new flange for 1½” valve installed):


    Note the through bolts are also now bronze, not stainless. When removing the old seacocks a couple of the stainless bolts sheared off rather than unscrew. Also note the difference in the hose clamps. New ones are solid, old ones were perforated. The new white paint is Interlux 2000E.

    Before (galley sink drain – oriented so that the plug could not be removed or serviced):

    During (new thru-hull, flange and backing plate for raw water, galley sink seacock removed):

    After (galley sink drain and relocated raw water intake):

    I am also planning on putting a Tee into the raw water intake above the new valve with a second valve and intake to allow fresh water flushing from the dock and also to allow anti-freeze to be loaded into the raw water side of the cooling system for winterization. I will get to that sometime between now and October. It’s an easy thing to do once you have a reliable valve at the water, around $75 for the parts. Once installed this can also be used as an emergency bilge pump in the event of a bad leak, just stick the secondary (fresh) intake hose in the bilge, turn off the raw water valve and turn the other one on, now the engine is pumping out the bilge.

    A great resource for information for the DIY boater on seacocks and other things is Compass Marine at this link. You might recognize some things in the pictures above on their website.

    So while all this was going on Janet was trying to get some shine back on the topsides with various products and a buffer, she did not have much luck with it initially despite having spent hours and hours on it while I was taking care of the other work. The previous owner had the boat painted with Awlgrip, which must have cost him a small fortune (I was quoted $12K to $14K to repaint it by Fraser Fiber Glass at Lynnwood not including lifts or getting the rig down and back up, maybe another $3K to $5K?). I didn’t ask for the quote, it was offered when I asked them for advice about getting a shine back on our boat. For reasons unknown the finish (shine) on the Awlgrip paint is gone. We are using various 3M finishing compounds of various coarseness to help the appearance and remove some of the oxidization and stains, after which we will wax it with Starbrite with PTEF. It won’t be perfect, but it will be better than it was. The topsides were last thoroughly cleaned in 2008 according to the previous owner.

    How long did all this take? We splashed May 30th, 21 days on the hard. It would have been shorter were it not for the fact I still work full time and some weather interruptions. I don’t know what it has all cost, I am afraid to add up all the bills. That said, the extra time on the hard and the cost ($150) to re-block so the boat is ready for refloating (painted everywhere with the appropriate drying time) is minor compared with the cost of hauling out every year, not to mention the inconvenience for those of us who still work. We are done for a couple of years at least, maybe another 4 years. The next haul out won’t be so painful, just bottom paint and topsides, we hope. Bronze is not cheap, BUT, I will sure sleep a lot easier now, especially on Breeze.

    Note the extra jacks (blue frames) under the aft part of the hull after re-blocking.

    * From Webmaster Sean: I have been using Pettit Horizons on “Hale Pau Hana” since about 2006, and hauling out for a full sand & re-paint only every three years. In intermediate years I would do a one-way haul out each spring, with a pressure-wash, change of zincs, and prop-cleaning, which usually runs to about $300 or so in boatyard fees. However the last two years since last haul-out I’ve switched to having a diver scrub the bottom each spring, the diver also scrapes the prop, changes zincs, and tells me if anything unusual is noticed, like extra growth or scrapes. All this for only $80 a pop! The bottom seems to be staying clean, and the boat sails well. Next year will be a full haul-out, so I’ll get to see the real results.

    Click here for link to Pettit Horizons paint

    Click here for link to Jotun paint


    • Thanks for taking the time to write this up. We run with micron CSC only because that’s what the previous owner had. It’s getting a bit thick in places so on our next haul we expect to take it all off. We’ll look at the paints recommended in this article.